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Arrosticini are the street food of Abruzzo’s sheepherding culture. They’re small lamb skewers, about 30 cm long, grilled over a narrow charcoal channel called a fornacella. The technique is as stripped back as the ingredient list.
The meat is castrato, castrated male sheep, cut into 1 cm cubes and threaded tightly on thin wooden skewers. Fat pieces alternate with lean ones. That balance is what keeps each skewer moist after two minutes over high heat.
You don’t need a fornacella to make these at home. A charcoal chimney barbecue works well. A cast-iron griddle gets you there if outdoor grilling isn’t possible, though you lose some of the smoke.
The only seasoning is coarse salt, added right before or right after grilling depending on who you ask in Abruzzo. Both approaches work. What doesn’t work is overseasoning or marinating – that changes the character entirely.
Why You’ll Love This Recipe
- Only three ingredients: lamb, salt, and wooden skewers
- Ready in under 30 minutes once the coals are hot
- High-protein, naturally gluten-free, no marinades needed
- Scales easily for a crowd – make 20 or 100
Ingredient Notes
- Lamb shoulder (castrato): Castrato (castrated male sheep) is traditional and has a firmer, less gamey flavor than regular lamb. Lamb shoulder is the practical substitute – it has the right fat-to-lean ratio. Avoid leg meat, which dries out too fast on the skewer.
- Lamb fat (extra, for threading): Ask your butcher for extra fat trim. Threading a small fat cube between every two lean cubes keeps the skewer self-basting. Don’t skip this step – it’s what separates a dry skewer from a juicy one.
- Coarse sea salt: Fleur de sel or coarse kosher salt both work. Fine table salt dissolves too fast and can draw out moisture if applied too early. Salt right before grilling for the best result.
- Thin wooden skewers (30 cm / 12 inch): Traditional arrosticini use skewers about 3-4 mm in diameter, thinner than standard supermarket ones. Soak them in cold water for 30 minutes before threading to slow charring on the grill.
- Olive oil (optional finish): A very light drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil after grilling is common in some Abruzzo households, though not universal. Use it if your lamb is on the leaner side.
Arrosticini Abruzzesi: Grilled Lamb Skewers from Abruzzo
Ingredients
Method
- Soak wooden skewers in a shallow tray of cold water for 30 minutes.
- Cut lamb shoulder into 1 cm cubes. Keep fat-bearing pieces separate so you can alternate them during threading.
- Thread each skewer tightly: 2 lean cubes, 1 fat cube, 2 lean cubes, 1 fat cube, continuing until you have 8-10 pieces per skewer with no gaps between them.
- Lay threaded skewers on a tray. Refrigerate uncovered for up to 8 hours, or proceed immediately.
- Light charcoal in a chimney starter and let it burn until all coals are fully white-ashed, about 20-25 minutes. Pour coals into the base of the grill and spread evenly into a single dense layer.
- Set the grill grate as close to the coals as possible, about 5-7 cm above the embers. Let it preheat for 5 minutes until it's too hot to hold your hand near for more than 2 seconds.
- Remove skewers from the fridge and season all sides lightly with coarse sea salt right before grilling.
- Place skewers on the hot grate in a single layer. They should sizzle loudly on contact.
- Turn skewers every 30 seconds using tongs, rotating a quarter turn each time. Total cook time is 4-5 minutes. Look for a golden-brown char on all four sides of each cube with visible grill marks.
- Check doneness: lamb should read 63 C / 145 F on an instant-read thermometer for medium, or 70 C / 158 F for well-done, which is the Abruzzese preference.
- Transfer to a board or wrap loosely in foil. Rest for 1 minute, then drizzle with olive oil if using. Serve immediately.
Notes
Tips for Success
- Cut lamb cubes to exactly 1 cm – uniform size is the single biggest factor in even cooking.
- Thread the skewer tightly with no gaps so the cubes don’t spin and cook unevenly.
- Let coals reach full white-ash stage before placing skewers – high direct heat is non-negotiable.
- Turn skewers continuously every 30 seconds rather than leaving them on one side.
- Rest skewers on a board for 60 seconds after grilling so the juices redistribute before eating.
Variations
- Mutton arrosticini: use older sheep meat for a stronger, more traditional pastoral flavor.
- Mixed fat skewers: alternate lamb fat with a small cube of guanciale for a richer, porky note.
- Herb-salted finish: mix coarse salt with dried rosemary and crushed dried chili for an Abruzzese mountain-style seasoning.
Storage and Reheating
Cooked arrosticini keep in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 days. The texture softens as they cool, so eating fresh off the grill is strongly preferred.
To reheat, lay skewers on a hot dry cast-iron griddle for 1-2 minutes per side. Avoid the microwave – it steams the meat and ruins the exterior.
Raw threaded skewers can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead and stored covered in the fridge. Bring them to room temperature for 15 minutes before grilling.
Serving Suggestions
In Abruzzo, arrosticini are served wrapped in foil or standing upright in a terracotta cup to stay warm. Eat them straight off the skewer with no cutlery. Bread is the only expected accompaniment – a thick slice of pane casereccio for catching the drippings.
For a fuller spread, add a simple bitter green salad dressed with red wine vinegar, or grilled sweet peppers and a bowl of chickpea bruschetta on the side. A chilled glass of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is the classic pairing – its tannins cut through the lamb fat cleanly, much as bold red wines complement the char on Italian spicy grilled chicken.
At a backyard gathering, plan on 8-10 skewers per person as a main. As part of a larger antipasto spread, 4-5 per person is enough.
FAQ
Why are my arrosticini dry and tough instead of juicy?
The most common cause is lamb that’s too lean – shoulder needs alternating fat cubes threaded in to stay moist. The second cause is cutting cubes larger than 1 cm, which requires longer cook time and dries them out.
Can I use beef instead of lamb for arrosticini abruzzesi?
Lamb is the defining ingredient – beef produces a different texture and misses the specific fat profile that makes arrosticini work. If lamb is hard to find, mutton is a closer substitute than any cut of beef.
Can I grill arrosticini on a gas barbecue instead of charcoal?
Gas works, but set it to maximum heat and let the grates preheat for at least 10 minutes. You’ll get good char and juicy meat, just without the smoke character that charcoal or wood embers give.
What is the difference between arrosticini abruzzesi and spiedini?
Arrosticini are strictly small cubed lamb on thin skewers, cooked plain with salt – it’s a specific regional tradition from Abruzzo tied to sheep farming, distinct from broader Italian grilled dishes like the square-cut egg pasta from Abruzzo that shares the same pastoral roots. Spiedini is a broader Italian term for any grilled skewer and can include pork, vegetables, or bread cubes with varying seasonings.
Are arrosticini abruzzesi gluten-free?
Yes, the traditional recipe contains only lamb, fat, and salt, which are all naturally gluten-free. Just make sure your coarse salt has no anti-caking additives that might contain gluten, though this is uncommon.
How far ahead can I thread the arrosticini skewers before grilling?
You can thread them up to 8 hours ahead and refrigerate covered on a tray. Don’t salt them until right before they go on the grill, as early salting draws out moisture and weakens the crust.