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Baccalà alla livornese comes from Livorno, the port city on the Tuscan coast that built its cooking around preserved fish, strong tomatoes, and pantry staples. The dish is straightforward: rehydrated salt cod braised gently in a sauce of tomatoes, olives, and capers — a pantry combination not unlike the one behind the anchovy-olive-caper sauce in pasta alla puttanesca — until the fish is just cooked through and the sauce clings to every flake.
The key is not overcooking it. Baccalà tightens fast under too much heat, so you want a low simmer rather than a rolling boil once the fish goes in.
This is Friday-night cooking in Livorno – practical, inexpensive, and satisfying. The olive oil does a lot of work here, so use one you’d be happy to dip bread in.
Why You’ll Love This Recipe
- Pre-soaked baccalà cooks in under 25 minutes
- One pan, minimal cleanup, pantry-driven ingredients
- Bold olive and caper sauce balances the cod’s richness
- Tastes better the next day – great for make-ahead meals
Ingredient Notes
- Baccalà (salt cod): Buy it already soaked from an Italian or Portuguese market to save 24-48 hours of prep. If you buy it dry, soak in cold water for 36-48 hours, changing the water 3-4 times.
- Canned whole peeled tomatoes: San Marzano or any good Italian brand works. Crush them by hand before adding – you want texture, not a smooth purée.
- Taggiasca or Gaeta olives: Taggiasca are the Ligurian pick and the closest to what you’d find in Livorno. Kalamata works as a substitute but brings a sharper brine.
- Salted capers: Rinse them well under cold water for at least 30 seconds. If you only have capers in brine, skip the rinsing step and reduce added salt further.
- Extra virgin olive oil: You need a generous pour here – about 4 tablespoons. It carries the flavor of the soffritto and finishes the sauce with body.
- Flat-leaf parsley: Add half at the start and half right before serving. The first batch seasons the sauce; the second keeps the finish clean and bright.
Baccalà alla Livornese (Salt Cod in Tomato Sauce)
Ingredients
Method
- Pat the soaked baccalà pieces dry with paper towels. Dust them lightly in flour on all sides, shaking off any excess.
- Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a wide skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers, add the baccalà in a single layer - work in two batches if needed. Cook for 2 minutes per side until lightly golden. Transfer to a plate.
- Reduce the heat to medium. Add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and the sliced garlic. Cook for 60 seconds, stirring, until pale gold and fragrant - do not let it brown.
- If using white wine, pour it in now and let it bubble for 30 seconds until the alcohol smell fades.
- Add the crushed tomatoes, olives, rinsed capers, and half the parsley. Stir to combine. Simmer uncovered for 8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens slightly.
- Nestle the browned baccalà pieces into the sauce, skin-side up. Spoon some sauce over the top, then cover with a lid and simmer on low heat for 12-15 minutes until the fish flakes easily when pressed with a fork.
- Taste the sauce and adjust with black pepper. Add salt only if needed - the cod and capers may season it sufficiently.
- Remove from heat. Rest for 5 minutes. Scatter the remaining parsley over the top and serve straight from the pan.
Notes
Tips for Success
- Pat the soaked baccalà dry before flouring to stop the coating turning pasty in the pan.
- Brown the floured cod pieces for 2 minutes per side before adding the sauce – this adds color and stops them breaking up later.
- Keep the heat at a low simmer once the cod is in the tomato sauce, no more than a gentle bubble.
- Taste the sauce before adding any salt – properly soaked baccalà still carries residual saltiness that seasons the dish.
- Rest the finished dish off the heat for 5 minutes before serving so the sauce tightens slightly around the fish.
Variations
- Add a pinch of dried chili flakes with the garlic for a spicier Livornese version.
- Stir in a handful of raisins and pine nuts for a Sicilian-influenced sweet-savory note.
- Replace half the tomatoes with cherry tomatoes halved and blistered separately for a fresher, lighter sauce.
Storage and Reheating
Store leftovers in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 days. The sauce absorbs into the fish overnight and the flavor deepens noticeably.
Reheat gently in a covered pan over low heat with a splash of water to loosen the sauce. Avoid the microwave if you can – it firms the cod and dries the sauce.
Baccalà alla livornese does not freeze well. The cod becomes spongy and the sauce separates on thawing.
Serving Suggestions
In Livorno this goes on the table with white polenta or plain boiled potatoes, both of which absorb the tomato sauce without competing with it — or serve it alongside Tuscan garlic-rubbed grilled bread for a simpler plate that stays within the same regional pantry. Crusty bread works just as well for a simpler weeknight plate.
A simple green salad dressed with lemon and olive oil rounds the meal out, or open with a plate of Italian seafood salad with squid and clams to lean further into the coastal theme. Keep it plain – the fish is assertive enough without more strong flavors on the plate.
For wine, a dry Vermentino or a light Verdicchio cuts through the salt cod and the olive oil without overpowering the tomato.
FAQ
How do I know when the baccalà is cooked in the tomato sauce?
The fish is done when it flakes easily when pressed with a fork and has turned opaque all the way through – usually 12-15 minutes at a low simmer. Pull it off the heat the moment it flakes; another few minutes and it tightens up.
Can I use stockfish instead of baccalà for this Livornese recipe?
Stockfish is air-dried rather than salt-cured, so it needs a much longer soak – up to 3-4 days – and has a firmer, drier texture once cooked. The flavor profile in the finished dish will be slightly different but still works with this sauce.
Why is my baccalà alla livornese falling apart in the pan?
The two most common causes are skipping the flour coating and simmering too hard. Dust the pieces lightly in flour, brown them first, then add the sauce and keep it at a bare simmer rather than a boil.
Can I make baccalà alla livornese the day before serving?
Yes, and it actually improves overnight as the cod absorbs the tomato sauce. Cook it fully, let it cool, refrigerate in the pan or a container, then reheat covered on low the next day.
Is baccalà alla livornese gluten-free?
Not by default, since the cod is lightly floured before browning. Swap the plain flour for rice flour or a certified gluten-free flour and the rest of the recipe needs no changes.
What is the difference between baccalà alla livornese and baccalà alla romana?
The Livornese version uses olives and capers in a tomato base, reflecting the port city’s pantry — the same bold southern Italian flavors that define fusilli with San Marzano tomatoes and olives. The Roman preparation – baccalà in umido – is simpler, typically tomato and onion without olives, and sometimes includes raisins and pine nuts depending on the neighborhood.