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Chisciöi di Tirano is a savory fritter from the Valtellina valley in Lombardy, made from a loose buckwheat batter studded with cubes of local cheese and pan-fried in butter until the edges turn dark and lacy.
The name comes from the dialect spoken around Tirano, where these fritters show up at village sagre and family tables alike, usually alongside polenta or a green salad.
I use Casera cheese here because that’s the traditional choice, though a mild Fontina or young Toma works just as well if you can’t find it. The batter itself is plain: buckwheat flour, water, an egg, a pinch of salt.
The one thing that trips people up is pan temperature. Too hot and the batter scorches before the cheese inside melts through; too low and the fritters turn out pale and greasy instead of crisp.
Why You’ll Love This Recipe
- Ready in about 50 minutes with pantry staples
- Buckwheat batter gives a nutty, rustic flavor
- Melting cheese pockets in every crisp fritter
- Needs one skillet and one mixing bowl
Ingredient Notes
- buckwheat flour: Gives the batter its nutty flavor and dark color. Look for it in the gluten-free aisle or an Italian import shop.
- all-purpose flour: Softens the buckwheat’s bitterness and helps the batter hold together. Skip it and use all buckwheat flour for a gluten-free version.
- Casera cheese: A semi-soft Valtellina cheese that melts cleanly. Substitute young Fontina or a mild Toma if you can’t find it.
- egg: Binds the batter so it doesn’t fall apart once it hits the hot butter.
- butter: Fried in butter, not oil, for the nutty flavor Chisciöi is known for. Watch the heat since butter burns faster than oil.
Chisciöi di Tirano: Pan-Fried Buckwheat Cheese Fritters
Ingredients
Method
- Whisk the buckwheat flour, all-purpose flour and salt together in a mixing bowl.
- Add the water in a slow stream, whisking constantly, then whisk in the egg until the batter is smooth and pours like heavy cream.
- Cover and let the batter rest for 15 minutes so the buckwheat flour hydrates fully.
- Fold the cubed cheese into the batter right before frying.
- Melt about 20 g of the butter in a 26 cm / 10-inch cast-iron skillet over medium heat until it foams and smells nutty.
- Ladle about 60 ml of batter per fritter into the skillet, spacing them apart, and fry 3 to 4 at a time so the pan doesn't crowd.
- Cook for 3 to 4 minutes until the underside is deep golden and lacy at the edges, then flip and cook another 3 minutes until the cheese has melted through.
- Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and keep warm in a low oven while you fry the remaining batches, adding more butter to the pan between rounds.
- Serve hot, straight from the pan.
Notes
- Rest batter 15 minutes before frying for full buckwheat hydration.
- Cut cheese into 1 cm cubes for even melting pockets.
- Fry in batches of 3 to 4 to keep butter temperature steady.
- Serve immediately since texture softens fast once fritters cool.
Tips for Success
- Rest the batter for 15 minutes before frying so the buckwheat flour hydrates fully.
- Cut the cheese into small, even cubes so every fritter gets a melting pocket.
- Keep the butter at a steady medium heat since scorched butter turns the batter bitter.
- Fry in batches of 3 to 4 fritters so the pan temperature doesn’t drop.
- Serve straight from the pan since Chisciöi lose their crisp edge fast once they cool.
Variations
- Swap half the buckwheat flour for cornmeal for a slightly sweeter, coarser texture typical of some Tirano households.
- Add a few torn sage leaves to the melted butter before frying for a herbal note that pairs well with the cheese.
- Use a mix of Casera and a sharper aged cheese like Bitto for a more pungent, complex filling.
Storage and Reheating
Chisciöi di Tirano keep for 3 to 4 days in an airtight container in the fridge. The cheese firms up as it cools, so don’t expect them to stay as soft as straight from the pan.
Reheat in a 200 C / 400 F oven for 6 to 8 minutes, or in a dry skillet over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes per side, until the edges crisp back up and the cheese softens again. Skip the microwave, it turns the batter rubbery.
Freezing works if you’re planning ahead. Lay cooled fritters flat on a tray until solid, then bag them for up to 1 month, and reheat straight from frozen in the oven with a few extra minutes.
Serving Suggestions
Chisciöi di Tirano traditionally sit next to a scoop of soft polenta, which soaks up any butter left in the pan. A simple green salad with a sharp vinegar dressing cuts through the richness.
For a bigger spread, add them to an antipasto board with cured meats like bresaola or speck, plus a few slices of rye bread.
A glass of Valtellina Rosso, a light Nebbiolo from the same valley, is the traditional pour alongside.
FAQ
Why are my Chisciöi di Tirano falling apart in the pan?
Your batter is probably too thin or didn’t rest long enough. Buckwheat flour needs about 15 minutes to hydrate fully, and a batter that pours like water instead of heavy cream won’t hold the cheese cubes together. Whisk in a little more flour, let it rest, then test one fritter before cooking the rest.
Can I use Fontina instead of Casera cheese in Chisciöi di Tirano?
Yes, young Fontina works as a substitute for Casera in Chisciöi di Tirano. It melts at a similar rate and has a comparable mild, milky flavor, though Casera has a slightly firmer bite before it hits the heat. A young Toma or mild provolone also works if that’s what’s in your fridge.
Can I make Chisciöi di Tirano batter ahead of time?
You can mix the plain batter, without the cheese, up to a day ahead and keep it covered in the fridge. Fold in the cubed cheese right before frying, since it can weep moisture if it sits in the batter too long. Give the batter a quick whisk before ladling it into the pan.
What goes well with Chisciöi di Tirano besides polenta?
A sharp green salad with a vinegar-forward dressing cuts through the richness of Chisciöi di Tirano well. Cured meats like bresaola or speck turn it into a full antipasto board, and a glass of Valtellina Rosso, a light Nebbiolo from the same valley, is the traditional pour alongside.
Are Chisciöi di Tirano gluten free?
Not as written, since the batter includes a portion of all-purpose flour alongside the buckwheat. You can make a gluten-free version using all buckwheat flour and checking that your cheese and butter come from a dedicated facility. The texture turns slightly more delicate but still holds together in the pan.
What’s the difference between Chisciöi and sciatt from Valtellina?
Chisciöi are flat fritters pan-fried in butter in a skillet, while sciatt are small, round balls of similar buckwheat batter deep-fried in oil. Both come from the Valtellina valley and both hide melting cheese inside, but sciatt often get dipped in bitter greens like chicory, and Chisciöi are usually eaten plain or with polenta.