Jump to Recipe
Barbagiuai are small fried ravioli from the Val Graveglia, a mountain valley behind Genoa. The filling is roasted squash wedges, rice, and parmesan, and the dough gets rolled thin, filled, sealed, then fried in hot oil until the crust turns deep gold and crackles when you bite in.
This isn’t the delicate boiled ravioli you find on a Ligurian trattoria menu. Barbagiuai are street food, snack food, something eaten standing up with a glass of wine at a village festa.
I adjusted this recipe after a few early batches where the filling came out too wet and the dough tore in the fryer. Squeeze the squash dry after roasting, that’s the fix.
The result is a crisp shell around a filling that’s sweet from the squash and salty from the parmesan, best eaten within minutes of coming out of the oil.
Why You’ll Love This Recipe
- Crisp fried shell with a soft squash and parmesan center
- Uses up leftover roasted squash or pumpkin puree
- Freezes well before frying for a make-ahead snack
- Traditional Ligurian street food you can make in your own kitchen
Ingredient Notes
- butternut squash: Works well here; kabocha or delicata get closer to the traditional zucca ligure if you can find them.
- cooked white rice: Thickens the filling and adds bite. Leftover risotto rice, cooled, works fine too.
- parmesan: Use real aged parmesan for depth. Pecorino works as a swap but tastes sharper and saltier.
- egg: Binds the filling together. Without it the mixture is looser and harder to seal cleanly.
- leek: Adds sweetness without overpowering the squash. A small yellow onion, sautéed the same way, is a fine substitute.
- fresh marjoram: The traditional herb here, milder and more floral than oregano. Dried marjoram works at half the amount.
- sunflower oil: A neutral oil with a high smoke point. Olive oil burns before it reaches 170 C / 340 F, so save it for the dough.
Crispy Fried Barbagiuai (Ligurian Squash Ravioli)
Ingredients
Method
- Heat the oven to 200 C / 390 F. Toss the squash cubes with 1 tbsp olive oil and roast for 25 to 30 minutes, until tender and lightly caramelized at the edges.
- While the squash roasts, heat the remaining 1 tbsp olive oil in a skillet over medium heat and cook the leek for 5 to 6 minutes, until soft and just starting to color.
- Mash the roasted squash, then squeeze it in a clean kitchen towel to remove excess water. Combine it in a bowl with the cooked rice, sauteed leek, parmesan, egg, marjoram, salt, and pepper.
- Mix the flour, salt, olive oil, and lukewarm water into a smooth dough. Knead for 5 minutes until elastic, then wrap and rest for 20 minutes.
- Roll the dough on a floured surface to about 2 mm thick. Cut into roughly 8 cm squares, giving you about 24 pieces.
- Spoon a heaping teaspoon of filling onto each square. Fold into a triangle or half-moon and seal the edges firmly with a fork so no filling leaks out.
- Heat the sunflower oil in a 26 cm / 10-inch heavy-bottomed pot to 170 C / 340 F, checking with a thermometer.
- Fry the barbagiuai in batches of 6 to 8 pieces, 2 to 3 minutes per side, until deep gold and crisp. Don't crowd the pot or the oil temperature drops and the shells turn greasy.
- Drain on a wire rack and sprinkle with flaky salt while still hot. Serve within minutes, while the crust is still crackling.
Notes
- Drain roasted squash well; wet filling is the main cause of soggy dough.
- Rest the dough 20 minutes before rolling so it doesn't spring back.
- Keep oil at 170 C / 340 F with a thermometer for even frying.
- Don't overfill; one heaping teaspoon of filling per square seals cleanly.
Tips for Success
- Squeeze roasted squash in a clean kitchen towel to remove excess water before mixing the filling.
- Roll the dough to about 2 mm thick so the barbagiuai fry crisp instead of doughy.
- Seal the edges firmly with a fork or your fingertips so the filling doesn’t leak into the oil.
- Fry in batches of 6 to 8 pieces, the same approach that keeps crispy mondeghili milanesi golden, so the oil stays close to 170 C / 340 F throughout.
- Drain fried barbagiuai on a wire rack, not paper towels, to keep the bottoms from steaming soft.
Variations
- Swap half the squash for boiled potato for a milder, less sweet filling closer to some valley versions.
- Add a pinch of nutmeg or extra chopped marjoram to the filling for a more aromatic result.
- Bake instead of fry at 200 C / 390 F for 18 to 20 minutes for a lighter, less crisp version.
Storage and Reheating
Barbagiuai keep in the fridge for 2 to 3 days in an airtight container. Let them cool completely first so condensation doesn’t soften the crust.
To reheat, put them on a wire rack over a sheet pan and warm in a 190 C / 375 F oven for 8 to 10 minutes, until the shell crisps back up. Skip the microwave, it turns the crust rubbery.
You can freeze them uncooked. Assemble and seal the ravioli, freeze them in a single layer on a tray, then bag them once solid. Fry straight from frozen, adding 1 to 2 minutes to the cook time.
Serving Suggestions
Barbagiuai taste best served hot, within a few minutes of frying, with nothing more than a wedge of lemon or a small dish of aioli on the side.
In Liguria they show up as part of a mixed fritto misto or alongside Ligurian trenette avvantaggiate and a glass of dry Vermentino.
For a light meal, pair three or four with a green salad dressed simply in olive oil and lemon to cut the richness of the fried dough.
FAQ
Why did my barbagiuai burst open while frying?
This usually means the seal wasn’t tight enough or the filling was too wet. Press the edges firmly with a fork and squeeze excess water out of the roasted squash before mixing the filling. Keep the oil close to 170 C / 340 F; hotter oil can crack the dough before the seal sets.
Can I use pumpkin instead of butternut squash for barbagiuai?
Yes, any dense winter squash works, including kabocha or a sugar pumpkin. Roast it the same way and squeeze out the extra moisture before mixing, since wetter squash varieties like pumpkin can make the filling loose and harder to seal into the dough.
Can I freeze barbagiuai before frying them?
Yes, assemble and seal the ravioli, then freeze them in a single layer on a tray before bagging. Fry straight from frozen in 170 C / 340 F oil, adding 1 to 2 minutes to the cook time so the filling heats through fully.
What pairs well with fried barbagiuai?
A glass of dry Vermentino or another crisp white wine cuts through the fried dough well, and a simple lemon-dressed green salad balances the richness. In Liguria they’re often served alongside farinata or as part of a mixed fritto misto plate.
Are barbagiuai gluten free?
No, the dough is made with all-purpose flour, so this recipe isn’t gluten free as written. You can try a 1:1 gluten-free flour blend, though the dough will be more delicate and needs gentler handling when you roll and seal it.
What’s the difference between barbagiuai and regular ravioli?
Barbagiuai are fried, not boiled, and the dough is thicker and sturdier to hold up in hot oil. The filling leans on roasted squash, rice and parmesan rather than the meat or ricotta fillings common in boiled ravioli, and they’re eaten as a snack rather than a pasta course.