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Ris e Revertis is a rustic rice and turnip greens soup from Castello dell’Acqua, a small village in Valtellina, in the Sondrio province of Lombardy. Cooks there simmer rice and the bitter tops of turnip plants together in broth, then finish the pot with butter and local Casera cheese.
The dish grew out of necessity, not indulgence. Rice, turnip greens, an onion, and whatever cheese sat in the larder made a filling supper for mountain families through the cold months.
The greens turn tender and slightly bitter against the starchy rice, and the melted cheese pulls everything into a loose, spoonable consistency, somewhere between a soup and a very loose risotto.
One thing to watch: if you cook the greens too long before adding the rice, they turn gray and lose their bite. I blanch them briefly, then let them finish cooking alongside the rice instead.
Why You’ll Love This Recipe
- Comes together in one pot with about 15 minutes of hands-on work
- Puts bitter turnip greens to good use instead of tossing them
- Melted Casera cheese turns a plain broth into something rich
- Costs under 2 dollars per serving with pantry staples
Ingredient Notes
- Carnaroli rice: Carnaroli holds its shape better than Arborio here since this dish simmers longer than a stirred risotto. Vialone Nano works too.
- Turnip greens: Look for young, tender turnip tops with small leaves. Older greens turn bitter and need a longer blanch.
- Valtellina Casera cheese: A semi-hard alpine cow’s milk cheese with a mild tang. Fontina or a young Asiago melts in a similar way if you can’t find it.
- Butter: Use unsalted butter so you can control the salt once the cheese goes in.
- Onion: A yellow onion gives a mellow base. A shallot works if you want something milder.
- Vegetable broth: Vegetable broth keeps the soup vegetarian. Traditional versions in Castello dell’Acqua often use a light meat broth instead.
Ris e Revertis: Alpine Rice and Turnip Greens Soup
Ingredients
Method
- Trim the tough stems from the turnip greens, wash well, and roughly chop the leaves and tender stems.
- Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and blanch the greens for 2 to 3 minutes until just wilted. Drain and set aside.
- In a 26 cm / 10-inch heavy pot or Dutch oven, melt 40 g of the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 5 to 6 minutes until soft and translucent.
- Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds until fragrant.
- Pour in the hot broth and bring to a gentle simmer.
- Stir in the rice, partially cover, and simmer for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the rice is tender but still holds a little bite in the center.
- Add the blanched turnip greens and simmer for another 3 to 4 minutes until fully tender and the soup has a loose, spoonable consistency.
- Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the remaining 20 g butter and the grated Casera cheese until melted and creamy.
- Season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg. Let the soup rest for 5 minutes off the heat before ladling into bowls.
Notes
- Blanch turnip greens briefly to keep their color and bite.
- Add cheese off heat to avoid a grainy, split texture.
- Rice keeps cooking in residual heat, so pull the pot slightly early.
- Traditional versions sometimes swap in speck for a smokier broth.
Tips for Success
- Blanch the turnip greens for 2 to 3 minutes so they keep a fresh green color instead of turning gray.
- Stir the rice only occasionally, not constantly, since this is a loose soup, not a stirred risotto.
- Grate the Casera cheese finely so it melts into the broth without clumping.
- Keep extra hot broth on hand in case the soup thickens too much as it simmers.
- Add the cheese off the heat to keep the fat from separating and turning grainy.
Variations
- Stir in 80 g of diced pancetta with the onion for a heartier, smokier version of the dish.
- Swap turnip greens for chard or kale if turnip tops aren’t in season where you live.
- Use Fontina Valdostana instead of Casera for a milder, creamier finish.
Storage and Reheating
Ris e Revertis keeps in the fridge for 3 to 4 days in an airtight container. The rice keeps absorbing broth as it sits, so the soup turns thicker by day two.
To reheat, warm it gently in a saucepan over medium-low heat with a splash of broth or water, stirring until it loosens back to a spoonable consistency, about 5 minutes.
Freezing doesn’t work well here since the rice turns mushy once thawed. If you want to prep ahead, cook the greens and broth base a day early, then add the rice fresh when you’re ready to serve.
Serving Suggestions
Ladle Ris e Revertis into shallow bowls and serve it hot as a primo, the way it’s eaten in Castello dell’Acqua kitchens. A slice of dense rye bread on the side is enough to round out the meal.
A glass of Valtellina Rosso, made from the local Chiavennasca grape, matches the bitterness of the greens without fighting it.
For a heartier plate, add a poached egg on top or a few curls of speck.
FAQ
How do I know when the rice in Ris e Revertis is done?
The rice is done when it’s tender but still holds a little bite in the center, usually 12 to 15 minutes after it goes into the simmering broth. The turnip greens should be fully soft, not mushy, and the soup should look loose and spoonable rather than thick like risotto.
Can I substitute Fontina for Valtellina Casera in this recipe?
Yes, Fontina works well since it melts smoothly and has a similar mild, nutty flavor to Casera. A young Asiago is another decent stand-in. The soup will taste slightly different but the texture stays close to the original.
Can I make Ris e Revertis ahead and reheat it later?
You can, but the rice keeps absorbing broth as it sits, so leftovers thicken up within a day. Store it in the fridge for 3 to 4 days and reheat gently on the stove with a splash of broth or water to loosen it back up.
What goes well with Ris e Revertis besides bread?
A glass of Valtellina Rosso made from Chiavennasca grapes pairs well since its light tannins cut through the bitter greens. Dense rye bread or a few curls of speck on top also round out the meal without overpowering it.
Is Ris e Revertis gluten-free?
Yes, as written it’s gluten-free since it relies on rice, turnip greens, butter, cheese, and broth with no flour or thickeners. Just double check that your broth or bouillon doesn’t contain hidden gluten additives.
What’s the difference between Ris e Revertis and a classic risotto?
Ris e Revertis is simmered like a soup, not stirred constantly with warm broth added ladle by ladle like a classic risotto. The result is looser and brothier, closer to a hearty minestra than a creamy, tightly bound risotto.