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Mafalda siciliana is a coiled sesame semolina bread from Sicily, made with re-milled durum flour and rolled in sesame seeds before baking. This version makes two loaves of about 430 g each, with a crisp, toasted crust and a chewy, pale yellow crumb.
The texture comes from the semola rimacinata, not from added fat or sugar. The sesame, called giuggiulena in Sicilian, adds a nutty crunch against the soft crumb.
One judgment call matters here. The dough feels sticky for the first five minutes of kneading, and you’ll want to add flour. Don’t. Semolina absorbs water slowly, and extra flour is what makes the crumb dry and dense.
Plan for just under 4 hours start to finish, with about 30 minutes of hands-on work. The rest is rising, baking, and cooling.
Why You’ll Love This Recipe
- Only 30 minutes of hands-on work, the rest is rising
- Makes two loaves, so one can go in the freezer
- Toasted sesame crust gives crunch against a chewy crumb
- Uses pantry staples: semolina, flour, yeast, honey, and oil
Ingredient Notes
- semola rimacinata: This is finely milled durum wheat, pale yellow and soft to the touch. Look for ‘semola rimacinata di grano duro’ on the label, or use fine durum flour sold as extra fine semolina.
- bread flour: It adds gluten strength, since semolina alone makes a tight loaf. All-purpose flour works too, but the crumb will be slightly less chewy.
- hulled white sesame seeds: Hulled seeds toast evenly and taste sweeter. Unhulled seeds work but read slightly bitter once baked.
- honey: It feeds the yeast and helps the crust color. Use 1 tbsp of sugar instead to keep the loaf vegan.
- extra-virgin olive oil: A mild oil keeps the crumb tender without flavoring it. A strongly peppery oil will come through in the crumb.
Mafalda Siciliana: Sesame Semolina Bread with a Soft Crumb
Ingredients
Method
- Whisk the semola rimacinata, bread flour, yeast, and salt in a 4-quart / 4 L bowl. Add the lukewarm water, honey, and olive oil, then mix with a wet hand or a dough hook for 2 minutes, until no dry flour remains.
- Knead on an unfloured counter for 10 minutes, or 8 minutes on medium-low in a stand mixer, until the dough is smooth and springs back slowly when poked. It stays sticky for the first 5 minutes. Resist adding flour and lift it with a bench scraper instead.
- Shape the dough into a ball and place it in a lightly oiled bowl. Cover and let it rise at 24 C / 75 F for 90 minutes, until doubled in size.
- Divide the dough into two pieces of about 450 g each. Roll each piece on an unfloured counter into a rope about 55 cm / 22 inches long and 3 cm thick, working from the center outward.
- Spread the sesame seeds on a rimmed plate. Brush each rope lightly with water, roll it through the seeds until fully coated, then wind it into a tight spiral and tuck the end underneath. Set both coils on a parchment-lined 33 x 46 cm / 13 x 18 inch sheet pan, about 10 cm / 4 inches apart.
- Cover the loaves loosely with a towel and proof for 45 minutes, until puffy and a fingertip dent springs back slowly. For the last 20 minutes, set a rack in the middle, put a 20 cm / 8-inch metal baking pan on the lowest rack, and heat the oven to 220 C / 425 F.
- Slide the sheet pan onto the middle rack, pour the boiling water into the hot metal pan, and close the door quickly. Bake for 15 minutes, then lower the heat to 200 C / 390 F and bake 20 minutes more, until the crust is deep golden and the center of the coil reads 205 F / 96 C.
- Move the loaves to a wire rack and cool for at least 30 minutes before slicing, so the crumb finishes setting.
Notes
- Weigh everything: 500 g flour, 340 ml water, and 10 g salt keep the dough consistent.
- Brush the ropes with water right before rolling in sesame, or the seeds fall off in the oven.
- Keep the dough tacky and use a bench scraper instead of adding flour.
- Leave the steam pan in the oven until it cools, then pour out the water.
Tips for Success
- Weigh the flour and water on a kitchen scale, since semolina packs differently by the cup and changes the hydration.
- Roll each rope from the center outward with your palms, and stop at 55 cm so the coil winds tight.
- Press a fingertip into the proofed dough: a dent that springs back slowly means the loaves are ready for the oven.
- Pour the boiling water into the preheated pan the moment the loaves go in, then close the oven door fast.
- Probe the center of the coil for 205 F / 96 C, and cool the loaves at least 30 minutes before slicing.
Variations
- Add 1 tsp of fennel seeds to the sesame coating for a savory, lightly aniseed crust that suits cheese and cured meats.
- Swap 100 g of the semolina for whole wheat flour for a nuttier crumb, and add 15 ml more water.
- Replace the yeast with 100 g ripe sourdough starter and extend the first rise to 4 to 5 hours, until doubled.
Storage and Reheating
Mafalda siciliana keeps for 3 days at room temperature once fully cooled. Wrap it in a clean kitchen towel or paper bag and store it cut-side down on a board. Plastic softens the crust, so skip it for the first day.
For longer storage, slice the cooled loaf and freeze the slices in a zip bag for up to 3 months. Toast the slices straight from frozen for about 2 minutes. A whole frozen loaf thaws on the counter in about 2 hours.
To refresh a day-old or thawed loaf, set it directly on the oven rack at 180 C / 350 F for 8 minutes. The crust crisps again and the crumb turns soft.
Serving Suggestions
Mafalda siciliana works best as a table bread, torn by hand or cut into thick slices. The chewy crumb holds up to dipping, so put out a bowl of olive oil and a jar of caponata or slow-cooked cianfotta napoletana.
For breakfast, toast a slice and top it with fresh ricotta and a drizzle of honey. The sesame crust browns further in the toaster and tastes nuttier.
For sandwiches, cut 2 cm slices and fill them with mortadella, grilled eggplant, or sliced tomato with anchovies. It’s also a good bread for mopping up a tomato-based soup or a braised palombo in umido.
FAQ
Why is my Mafalda siciliana dense and dry inside?
Extra flour is the usual cause. Semolina dough feels sticky for the first 5 minutes of kneading, then firms up as the durum absorbs the water, so adding flour early gives a tight, dry crumb. Weigh 500 g flour to 340 ml water, knead for 10 minutes, and proof until a fingertip dent springs back slowly.
Can I use regular semolina or all-purpose flour instead of semola rimacinata?
All bread flour works with the same 340 ml of water, but the crumb turns white and loses the slight sweetness of durum. Coarse pasta semolina is the one to avoid, because it stays gritty after baking. Fine durum flour sold as extra fine semolina is a direct swap.
Can I freeze Mafalda siciliana, and how do I bring the crust back?
Yes, it freezes for up to 3 months. Slice the cooled loaf first and toast the slices straight from frozen for about 2 minutes. For a whole loaf, thaw it on the counter for 2 hours, then heat it at 180 C / 350 F for 8 minutes to crisp the sesame crust again.
What do you serve with a sesame semolina loaf like mafalda?
Anything with sauce or a soft spread. Caponata, fresh ricotta with honey, and tomato-based soups all work because the chewy crumb holds up to dipping. For sandwiches, cut slices 2 cm thick and fill them with mortadella or grilled eggplant, since the dense crumb doesn’t go soggy quickly.
Is Mafalda siciliana the same as pane di semola or mafaldine pasta?
Neither. Pane di semola is the wide family of Sicilian breads made with durum semolina, and mafalda is one coiled shape within it, usually coated in sesame. Mafaldine is a ribbon pasta with ruffled edges, so it’s a different product despite the similar name.
Is this sesame semolina bread vegan?
Not as written, because of the tablespoon of honey. Swap in 1 tbsp of sugar and the loaf is vegan, since the dough has no eggs, milk, or butter. Brush the ropes with plain water, not egg wash, and the sesame seeds still stick.