Crack the black peppercorns coarsely with a mortar and pestle or the bottom of a skillet. Don't use pre-ground pepper, the flavor is flatter and loses its aroma fast.

Toast the cracked pepper in a dry 10-inch / 26 cm skillet over medium heat for 60 to 90 seconds, shaking the pan, until it smells sharp and lightly smoky.

Bring 3 quarts / 2.8 L water to a boil in a 6-quart pot. Salt lightly, the pecorino brings plenty of salt on its own.

Add the spaghetti and cook 1 minute less than the package time, until just shy of al dente, it finishes cooking in the sauce.

Scoop out 2 cups / 480 ml pasta water before draining, using a heatproof cup or ladle. Lift the pasta straight from the pot with tongs instead of tipping it into a colander, so you don't lose the starchy water.

In a large heatproof bowl, whisk the finely grated pecorino with 1/2 cup / 120 ml of the hot pasta water, added a little at a time, until you get a smooth, loose paste with no lumps.

Add the drained pasta to the bowl along with the toasted pepper. Toss constantly with tongs off the heat, adding splashes of the reserved pasta water as needed until the sauce turns glossy and coats the strands.

If the sauce looks tight or stringy, add another splash of hot pasta water and keep tossing, it loosens as the starch relaxes. Plate immediately with extra grated pecorino and a final crack of pepper.