Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil, about 1 tbsp salt per 4 quarts / 4 L water.

Add the linguine and cook 1 minute short of the package time, until just shy of al dente. Reserve 1 cup / 240 ml pasta water, then drain.

While the pasta cooks, warm the olive oil in a 12-inch / 30 cm skillet over medium heat. Add the sliced garlic and chili flakes, and cook 1 to 2 minutes until fragrant but not browned.

Pour in the white wine and let it bubble for 1 minute to cook off the raw alcohol smell.

Add the drained linguine to the skillet with a splash of the reserved pasta water. Toss over low heat for 1 minute until the noodles are glossy and coated.

Remove the skillet from the heat completely. Fold in the sea urchin roe gently, breaking it into soft pieces, until it just melts into the pasta. Don't put the pan back on the burner.

Add more pasta water a tablespoon at a time if the sauce looks dry, until it clings lightly to the noodles.

Stir in the chopped parsley and lemon zest. Taste and adjust salt.

Divide among plates and serve right away, with extra roe on top if you have it.