Rinse the pajata rings under cold water and pat dry. If not already tied, loop each into a rough coil and tie loosely with kitchen string so the milk stays inside.

Pat the rings dry again with paper towel. Excess moisture stops them from browning properly.

Warm olive oil in a wide heavy pot over medium heat. Add garlic and chili flakes, cook 1 minute until fragrant.

Add pajata rings and brown 4 to 5 minutes per side until the casing looks blistered and lightly golden.

Pour in white wine, scrape up any browned bits, and let it bubble 2 minutes until mostly evaporated.

Add crushed tomatoes, bay leaf, a good pinch of salt and pepper. Bring to a bare simmer.

Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer 45 to 60 minutes, turning the rings once, until the casing is tender and the milk inside has set into soft curds. Press a ring with a spoon; it should feel firm, not liquid.

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Cook rigatoni until al dente, 1 minute less than the package suggests.

Reserve 1 cup of pasta water, then drain the rigatoni.

Remove the bay leaf. Lift out the pajata rings, cut into shorter pieces if you like, and return them to the sauce.

Add the drained rigatoni to the pot with the sauce, tossing over low heat and adding splashes of pasta water until it clings to the pasta, about 1 to 2 minutes.

Stir in half the pecorino, then plate and top with more pecorino and a crack of black pepper.