Ingredients
Method
Make the dumplings
- Stir the breadcrumbs, flour and fine salt together in a mixing bowl. Pour in 180 ml of hot water, stir with a wooden spoon until shaggy, then tip onto the counter and knead for 2 minutes. Add up to 20 ml more water if the dough crumbles, or a tablespoon of flour if it sticks to your palm, until it feels like soft modeling clay.
- Cut the dough into 4 pieces and roll each into a rope about 1 cm thick, keeping the rest under a damp towel. Cut each rope into 1 cm pieces, press each with your thumb and drag it slightly toward you to make a shallow curl. Set the pisarei in a single layer on a floured 33 x 46 cm / 13 x 18 inch sheet pan. You'll have a few hundred, and shaping takes about 20 minutes.
Build the sauce
- Warm the olive oil and pancetta in a 28 cm / 11-inch deep sauté pan over medium heat for 3 minutes, until the fat renders and the edges turn pale gold. Add the onion, carrot, celery and a pinch of salt, and cook over medium-low heat for 7 minutes, until soft and translucent but not browned.
- Stir in the tomato paste for 1 minute, then add the passata, borlotti beans and broth. Simmer gently, uncovered, for 15 minutes, mashing a ladleful of beans against the side of the pan halfway through so the sauce thickens and coats a spoon. While it simmers, bring 4 litres of water to a boil in a 24 cm / 5-quart (4.7 L) pot and add the coarse salt.
Cook and finish
- Boil the pisarei in the salted water for 4 to 5 minutes. They rise to the surface after about 2 minutes, but keep cooking and bite one: the center should be tender with no dry floury spot. Scoop out 120 ml of the cooking water, then lift the dumplings into the sauce with a slotted spoon.
- Toss over low heat for 1 minute, adding cooking water a splash at a time until the sauce loosens and coats the dumplings. Off the heat, stir in half the Grana Padano, taste for salt, and serve with black pepper and the remaining cheese.
Notes
- Cover dough you aren't shaping with a damp towel so it doesn't dry and crack.
- Dust shaped pisarei with flour and keep them in a single layer so they don't stick.
- Taste for salt at the end, since pancetta, canned beans and Grana Padano are all salty.
- Make the sauce a day ahead and shape the dumplings fresh for the best texture.
