Ingredients
Method
Sear the cheeks
- Heat the oven to 150 C / 300 F with a rack in the lower third. Trim the silverskin and any hard white fat from the cheeks with a small knife, leaving the marbled fat. Pat the cheeks completely dry with paper towels and season all over with the salt and pepper.
- Heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a 28 cm / 11-inch Dutch oven over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Sear two cheeks for 3 to 4 minutes per side, without moving them, until deep brown. Move them to a plate, add another 1 tbsp of oil, and sear the other two the same way.
Build the braise
- Lower the heat to medium and add the remaining 1 tbsp of oil, the onion, carrots and celery. Cook for 8 minutes, stirring and scraping up the browned bits, until soft and golden at the edges. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook for 1 minute, until the paste darkens to brick red.
- Pour in the wine and boil for 6 to 7 minutes, until reduced by about a third and the sharp alcohol smell has mellowed. Add the stock, rosemary, thyme and bay leaves.
- Nestle the cheeks back into the pot with any plate juices. The liquid should come about two-thirds of the way up the meat. Bring to a gentle simmer, cover, and move to the oven. Braise for 3 hours, turning the cheeks once at the 90-minute mark, until a fork slides in with no resistance. Cheeks pulled early feel springy and rubbery, so if you feel any resistance, return them for 20 to 30 minutes.
Finish the sauce
- Lift the cheeks onto a plate, cover with foil, and rest for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, strain the braising liquid through a fine-mesh sieve into a 3-quart / 2.8 L saucepan, pressing on the vegetables, and skim the fat from the surface. Boil over medium-high heat for 10 minutes, until glossy and thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Season with salt to taste.
- Return the cheeks to the sauce, or spoon the sauce over them, and turn once to glaze. Serve straight away over soft polenta.
Notes
- Trim all silverskin, but leave the marbled fat for flavor and body.
- Use a wine you'd drink, since the sauce concentrates whatever you pour in.
- Sear in two batches so the Dutch oven stays hot and the cheeks brown instead of steam.
- Salt the sauce last, after reducing, because the flavor concentrates as it boils.
- Test doneness with a fork at 3 hours rather than relying on the clock alone.
