Heat the oven to 200 C / 390 F. Lightly oil a shallow ceramic baking dish large enough to hold all the sardine rolls standing snugly upright.

Heat a dry skillet over medium heat. Add the breadcrumbs and toast, stirring often, for 3 to 4 minutes until pale gold and fragrant. Tip into a mixing bowl.

Add the pine nuts, drained raisins, chopped anchovy fillets, parsley, orange zest, lemon zest, and 2 tbsp olive oil to the crumbs. Stir until combined - the mixture should hold together loosely when pressed. Taste and add a small pinch of salt if needed.

Place a gutted sardine skin-side down on a cutting board. Press firmly along the backbone with your thumb to flatten. Slide a finger under the backbone at the head end and lift it away cleanly, removing the spine from head to tail. The fish should lie open in one flat piece.

Repeat with all remaining sardines. Season each butterflied sardine lightly with salt and pepper.

Place 1 heaped teaspoon of stuffing at the head end of each butterflied sardine, on the flesh side. Press the stuffing down gently so it stays in place.

Roll each sardine from the head end toward the tail so the tail fin sticks upright. Place each roll in the oiled baking dish, tail-up, and push them together so they're snug.

Tuck a bay leaf between each roll. Drizzle the orange juice and remaining 3 tbsp olive oil evenly over the top.

Bake at 200 C / 390 F for 15 to 18 minutes, until the breadcrumb tips are golden and the fish is cooked through - the flesh should turn opaque when you press the side of a roll gently.

Rest 5 minutes before serving. Serve warm or at room temperature with a wedge of lemon on the side.