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Deep bowl of rigatoni pasta alla Genovese with pale amber onion and shredded beef sauce, topped with Parmigiano

Pasta alla Genovese: The Neapolitan Onion and Beef Sauce Worth the Wait

A slow-braised Neapolitan sauce of beef chuck and white onions, cooked down for 2 to 3 hours until silky and rich, then tossed with ziti and Parmigiano.
Prep Time 20 minutes
Cook Time 2 hours 40 minutes
Total Time 3 hours
Servings: 4 servings
Calories: 610

Ingredients
  

For the Genovese sauce
  • 650 g beef chuck, in one piece bone-in or boneless, brisket or shin also work
  • 1.4 kg white onions, peeled and thinly sliced about 6 large onions
  • 3 tbsp lard or extra-virgin olive oil lard is traditional, olive oil is a fine substitute
  • 1 medium carrot, finely diced
  • 1 celery stalk, finely diced
  • 120 ml dry white wine Falanghina or any dry Italian white
  • 1.5 tsp fine sea salt plus more to taste
  • 0.5 tsp black pepper, freshly ground
  • 1 piece Parmigiano-Reggiano rind optional but adds depth
To finish
  • 400 g ziti or rigatoni broken ziti (ziti spezzati) is classic
  • 80 g Parmigiano-Reggiano, freshly grated plus extra at the table
  • 1 cup pasta cooking water, reserved starchy, so don't skip this

Method
 

Build the base
  1. Heat the lard or olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat until shimmering.
  2. Add the diced carrot and celery and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly golden.
  3. Nestle the beef chuck into the pot in one piece and sear for 3 to 4 minutes per side until deeply browned on all surfaces. Remove and set aside.
  4. Add all the sliced onions to the pot along with 1 tsp of salt. Stir to coat them in the fat and any browned bits.
Slow cook the onions and beef
  1. Cover the pot and cook the onions over low to medium-low heat for 20 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes, until they begin to wilt and release their liquid.
  2. Return the seared beef to the pot, burying it in the onions. Add the Parmigiano rind if using.
  3. Pour in the white wine, stir gently, and let it bubble for 2 minutes until the sharp alcohol smell fades.
  4. Reduce heat to its lowest setting, set the lid ajar by about 2 cm, and braise for 2 hours, stirring every 20 to 30 minutes. The onions should slowly turn from white to pale gold to a warm amber. If the pot looks dry at any point, add 2 to 3 tablespoons of water.
  5. After 2 hours, remove the lid completely and cook for a further 20 to 30 minutes until the sauce is thick, glossy, and no longer watery. Season with the remaining salt and black pepper.
Shred and finish the sauce
  1. Lift the beef out of the pot and place it on a cutting board. Remove any bones or large pieces of fat, then shred the meat by hand into rough, uneven threads.
  2. Stir the shredded beef back through the onion sauce. Remove and discard the Parmigiano rind if used. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Cook the pasta and plate
  1. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Salt it generously - about 10 g of salt per liter of water.
  2. Cook the ziti or rigatoni until 1 minute short of al dente according to the package. Reserve 1 cup of pasta cooking water before draining.
  3. Drain the pasta and add it directly to the pot of Genovese sauce over low heat. Toss vigorously, adding the pasta water a few tablespoons at a time until the sauce coats every piece evenly and looks glossy rather than dry.
  4. Remove from heat, add half the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, and toss again. Divide into deep bowls and finish with the remaining cheese. Serve immediately.

Notes

The sauce can be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated - the flavor improves noticeably after a day. Cook the pasta fresh when ready to serve.