Pat the 8 squid tubes dry with paper towels. Separate the tentacles, trim off the hard beak at the base if it's still attached, and chop the tentacles finely.

In a mixing bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, chopped tentacles, minced garlic, parsley, pecorino, egg, lemon zest, 1 tbsp olive oil, 1/2 tsp salt and the pepper. Mix until the filling clumps when squeezed, adding 1 tbsp water if it feels dry.

Spoon the filling loosely into each tube until it is two-thirds full, leaving the top 2 cm empty. Close each opening with a toothpick, threading it through both layers of squid.

Heat 3 tbsp olive oil in a 30 cm / 12-inch deep sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion with a pinch of the sauce salt and cook for 5 minutes until soft and pale gold. Stir in the sliced garlic and chili flakes for 30 seconds until fragrant.

Pour in the wine and boil for 2 minutes until the sharp alcohol smell fades. Add the crushed tomatoes, water and remaining sauce salt, then simmer for 5 minutes.

Nestle the stuffed squid into the sauce in a single layer and spoon sauce over the tops. Partly cover with the lid, lower the heat to a bare simmer, and cook for 40 minutes, turning the squid once at the 20-minute mark with two spoons.

Slide a skewer into the thickest tube. It should pass through with no resistance, and if it doesn't, simmer 5 to 10 minutes more. Stir in the basil, remove the toothpicks, and serve the squid with plenty of sauce.