Heat the olive oil in a 28 cm / 11-inch Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook for 4 to 5 minutes until the fat renders and the edges crisp.
Add the onion, carrot and celery. Cook for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring often, until softened and pale gold.
Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute until fragrant.
Pour in the white wine, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom. Simmer for 2 minutes until the alcohol smell fades.
Add the cabbage in two batches, stirring each batch until it wilts down before adding the next, about 3 minutes total.
Stir in the tomato passata, water or stock, bay leaf, chili flakes and parmesan rind if using. Season with salt and pepper.
Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 35 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is tender but the ribs still give a little resistance.
Remove the lid and the bay leaf and parmesan rind. If the sauce looks thin, simmer uncovered for 5 more minutes until it clings to the cabbage instead of pooling.
Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve warm.